Cauliflower soup for people who don’t like cauliflower

Earlier I promised this recipe for cauli-phobes and here it is. I learned it from someone at my first job, an overworked woman called Suzanne, who, after I volunteered to help her with some conference organizing, invited me to lunch one Saturday. She made this as we talked. I had always found cauliflowers a dull vegetable, edible but forgettable, but this take on them appealed to me.

According to Niki Segnit in my well-used copy of The Flavour Thesaurus (a gift from Alison last year), “It was Louis the XIV who popularised cauliflower in France. He liked it boiled in stock, seasoned with nutmeg, and served with melted butter.” Frankly, I think Louis understood that cauliflower is simply a good nutmeg carrier. Back in his day, of course, it was an expensive spice that probably only royalty could really use in quantity. I use enough to make even the king envious.

Segnit praises nutmeg for its ability to make “sweet creamy dishes less cloying [think fettuccine alfredo] and cruciferous vegetables less bitter.” Hm. Note to self: try with broccoli rabe (which I find very bitter and in need of help).

Cauliflower soup

Olive oil

1 or 2 shallots, chopped

1 head cauliflower, chopped up into florets and other bits

Several cups of stock (or water, if you don’t have any stock)

Nutmeg to taste

Pour a small puddle of olive oil into a skillet, heat, and add the chopped shallots. When they are soft, stir in the chopped-up cauliflower. Stir for a minute, then add enough stock or water to cover the veggies. Let it cook, uncovered, as the cauliflower softens and the stock reduces.

When the cauliflower is soft (jab a few pieces with a knife to check), use a slotted spoon to transfer the bits of vegetable to a blender with some of the liquid. If you are a cauliflower-sceptic, transfer the whole lot. If not, leave a few florets intact for texture.

Put the blended cauliflower back into the skillet, and season generously with nutmeg. Serve with baguette, the crustier the better. Louis would understand.